1. Bobby and Rufus! I love Rufus an awful lot, and was very disappointed when he got killed back in season 6. So this was a delightful new outing with him. I'd quote favorite lines, but that would be just about all of 'em.
2. Finally finding out the story behind the bottle Sam and Jodie drink in "Time After Time". I love small bits of continuity like that, and this show does them so well.
3. The grave-digging--it was nifty to finally see the aftermath of a salt-and-burn, and the bit where Dean says "there has to be an easier way to do this" and it cuts to Bobby with the digger made me laugh. Also, the Sam and Dean shots, looking up at them from the coffin, were gorgeous.
4. That we didn't start in the Bunker. I love the Bunker, but I also like when they mix things up a little with the boys' entry to the episode. And it gave the sense that the brothers have been out trawling the countryside for something, anything that might be useful.
5. How much it felt like a horror movie--I could almost feel the creepy vibes coming off the screen, and the trapped souls were freaky, and Dean and Bobby getting possessed was skeevy, and all round it was an nice bit of genre.
6. It felt like a mystery, too; I like it when there's dead-ends and they have to backtrack and try a different line of inquiry.
7. The editing, goodness gracious--that scene where they're all doing the research and the rotating camera shot cycles between Bobby & Rufus and Sam & Dean. There was an enormous amount of that kind of thing, which must require a crazy amount of technical skill, to make sure everything matches up seamlessly, and it all appeared so effortless. (The director had some similarly gorgeous transitions in "The Werther Project"; so glad they've apparently added him to their stable of regulars.)
8. Having the Bobby & Rufus portion of the story set during season 4. It allowed for some nice, unforced paralleling, both emotionally and thematically.
9. The scene on the stairs with Dean and Bobby--the brevity and beauty of it--I'm glad there wasn't any dialog; would've spoiled the moment.
10. Dean seeing Sam dead in the nest--and telling him about it--and Sam's response. Painful but beautiful and (as Sam says) weirdly heart-warming.
11. Sam cradling Dean after freeing him from the soul-eater. I'll admit to melting all over the floor when that happened.
Is it just me, or has this season had a very strong old-school vibe to it throughout? And isn't it awesome?! :D